They are controversial: Bath mats and bath rugs repel many, others consider them indispensable. However, washing bath mats is hygienically important. There are two things to bear in mind to prevent damage to the washing machine!

Washing bath rugs and bath mats

It is inevitable that dust, dander and hair will accumulate in bath mats and bath rugs. Moisture can also cause mold to form in the fibers. And last but not least, to prevent the spread of athlete’s foot, it is important to wash your bath mat, rug or bath mat regularly.

This can normally be done easily in the washing machine. But before we explain what you need to bear in mind, let’s first answer the question of how bath mats and bath rugs actually differ.

Bath mat or bath rug: What’s the difference?

Bath rugs are generally made of synthetic fibers such as polyacrylic or polyester. They are also larger and heavier than bath mats. Bath mats, on the other hand, tend to be smaller and are usually made from natural fibers such as cotton.

However, the transitions are fluid and there are also regional differences in the names. For this reason, both bath rugs and bath mats are mentioned equally in this article, although the problems with washing primarily relate to the larger bath rugs.

Two mistakes when washing with the washing machine

There are two mistakes to avoid when washing bath mats and rugs.

1st mistake: Too heavy

An old household rule says that you should always leave a hand’s breadth of space in the drum to protect the washing machine from overloading. Many experts now consider this rule to be outdated, as the washing drums of modern machines are full before the maximum weight is reached.

However, this only applies to items of clothing. However, bath mats and bath rugs are large and heavy – and they soak up a lot of water, which increases their weight even more. This can be a problem when spinning in two ways:

• In the more favorable case, the washing machine’s imbalance control comes into play: this balances out the spin cycle or cancels it. The bath rug comes out of the washing machine soaking wet.
• In the worst-case scenario, the unbalance control does not work and the washing machine can be damaged – over time – due to the heavy weight: Expensive bearing damage is imminent.

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With or without unbalance control: A permanent heavy load can shorten the service life of your washing machine. For large, heavy bath mats and bath rugs, you should therefore always pay attention to the maximum load limit of the washing machine.

2nd mistake: Too hot

Bath mats and bath rugs often have a rubber coating on the underside 🛒. This is to prevent slipping on smooth tiles. Bath mats and rugs with a rubber coating should be washed at a maximum of 40 °C on a gentle cycle. If you wash them at 60 °C or higher, the rubber coating can come loose and stick to the inside of the washing machine. If the detached rubber pieces stick to inlets and outlets as well as sensitive parts, this can restrict the function of the washing machine and result in expensive repairs.

Bath mats made of pure cotton and without rubber can of course also be washed at 60 °C.

You should therefore read the manufacturer’s care instructions carefully before washing bath mats and rugs. Because even if they do not immediately cause damage to the washing machine, the mistakes can be costly in the long run.

Sources: frag-team-clean, familyhandyman

The links marked with the shopping cart 🛒 are affiliate links. The products are researched to the best of our authors’ knowledge and some are also recommended from personal experience. If you click on such an affiliate link and buy something through it, our editorial team will receive a small commission from the online store in question. For you as a user, the price does not change and there are no additional costs. The income helps us to offer you high-quality, entertaining journalism free of charge.

Opinions differ when it comes to washing temperatures: some swear by high temperatures, others by low ones. But does it really make a difference whether you wash your laundry at 30 °C or 40 °C? The answer is surprising: the effect of the seemingly minimal difference is enormous.

Washing laundry: at 30, 40 or 60 °C?

We used to learn at home economics school that lightly to normally soiled clothes should be washed at 40 °C, heavily soiled laundry at 60 °C – or even 90 °C. However, this rule no longer applies to modern detergents. However, this rule no longer applies to modern detergents. Nevertheless, it seems to be more persistent than any grass stain. Reason enough to get to the bottom of the question.

Why lower temperatures are enough

From ancient times to the middle of the 20th century, the washing result actually depended significantly on the washing temperature. This was due to the soaps, surfactants and bleaching agents used, which were able to dissolve the dirt molecules better the hotter the water was.

Since the 1970s, however, manufacturers have increasingly relied on detergent combinations with enzymes. Development in this area has progressed considerably. Modern detergent enzymes are not only more environmentally friendly, they also develop their full washing power at low temperatures.

Washing your clothes at 30 °C now achieves the same washing result as at 40 °C. So there is no difference between 30 °C and 40 °C in terms of washing results. In other respects, however, there is!

Save money with 30°C washing

Your laundry may not care whether you set the machine to 30°C or 40°C. But your wallet and the environment don’t!

On average, a washing machine requires twice as much energy for a washing temperature that is 10 °C higher. This is because the appliance uses more than three quarters of the energy to heat the water. This is particularly noticeable in the higher temperature ranges between 60 °C and 90 °C.

However, even in the lower temperature range, you can save a lot of electricity with a lower setting: If you lower your washing temperature from 40 °C to 30 °C, you reduce energy consumption and CO₂ emissions by 35%. If you previously always washed at 60 °C and now wash at 30 °C, you save a whole 67 % on electricity costs! At current energy prices, this will pay off considerably at the end of the year.

When it pays to wash at 60°C

Even if modern detergents achieve satisfactory results at 30 °C, some items of laundry are better washed at 60 °C. Especially if there is a risk of infection: “Boil washing is only necessary if infectious diseases are rampant in the household or if special hygiene is required, for example for relatives in need of care,” explains Stiftung Warentest.

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It is also better to wash towels, bed linen or dishcloths at 60 °C, as athlete’s foot, mites or germs could settle here. Otherwise, there is generally no hygienic need for washing temperatures above 30 °C.

Save around 35 to 67 % on energy costs! Who would have thought that washing at lower temperatures would have such an effect?

Source: freundin

“Have I caught clothes moths?” When you discover small holes in your clothes, this is often your first fear. In fact, the causes of the small “vampire bites” in T-shirts, undershirts and the like are often quite different. Here you can find out which culprits are usually behind them and what you need to do if moths really are the reason for the holes.

Holes in clothing due to friction

Resourceful household detectives have discovered that the main culprits for small holes in clothing have to do with our trousers: Belt buckles, buttons, rivets and zippers create constant abrasion, which over time wears out the fabric. The thin T-shirt fabric takes it particularly badly if the hip regularly rubs against the edge of the sink when washing dishes. A protruding zipper also wears down the material with every movement until it eventually tears.

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Forgotten laundry net

It gets nasty when loose bra fasteners, defective underwires or open zippers eat holes in the delicate cotton fabric during washing. Bras should therefore always be washed in a laundry net and zippers should be closed. Pants and jackets should be washed inside out if possible. If you want to be on the safe side, you can also sort your laundry into garments with and without buttons, buckles and hooks.

Poor quality textiles

In an estimated 80 percent of cases, the susceptibility to small holes in clothing is related to the quality of the fabric. Thin fibers, cheap processing and aggressive dyeing or bleaching processes do not promise a long shelf life. The friction of the material in the washing machine or frequent putting on and taking off is enough to overstretch the thread of the shirt. The problem is that second-class fabrics are also difficult to darn.

TipWhen buying, you can determine the quality of the fabric by pulling it apart a little. The thread should run evenly. If lint balls form when you rub the fabric briefly between your fingers, this is a sign of inferior quality.

Holes caused by washing machine

As the small holes in clothing are usually discovered after washing, the washing machine is often suspected. This suspicion is not unfounded. Buttons, rivets and fasteners can leave fine edges in the sieve of the washing drum. The drum can be inspected for such microscopic barbs using a pair of nylon tights that are no longer needed. You should also check whether the drum ribs are really tight.

However, the fact that the holes appear after washing is usually simply due to the fibers swelling and contracting due to the warm water.

Holes caused by clothes moths: What you can do

Everyone fears them: clothes moths. Moth holes are difficult to distinguish from the holes mentioned above with the naked eye. As a rule, they are more irregular and occur in small nests. If you are unsure, you should use a clothes moth trap. 🛒 hang up in the cupboard. This is the best way to detect an infestation.

Once the moth has been identified as the culprit, all items of clothing must be washed and the inside walls of the closet must also be cleaned. An alternative to washing is the freezer: the harmful moth larvae cannot tolerate icy temperatures. Lavender or a bar of soap in the wardrobe will prevent the pests.

The links marked with the shopping cart 🛒 are affiliate links. The products are researched to the best of our authors’ knowledge and some are recommended from personal experience. If you click on such an affiliate link and buy something through it, our editorial team will receive a small commission from the online store in question. For you as a user, the price does not change and there are no additional costs. The income helps us to offer you high-quality, entertaining journalism free of charge.

_{This article was partly created with machine assistance and carefully checked by the editorial team before publication.}

Remove stains with WD-40? Of course you can! When it comes to caring for clothes, most people think of washing, drying and ironing. But there is another way to keep clothes in good condition: WD-40! The penetrating oil, which is normally used to make squeaky doors or rusty bicycle chains work, can also work wonders on textiles.

WD-40 is a versatile penetrating oil that is generally used as a lubricant and rust remover. However, the multifunctional oil can also be helpful when caring for items of clothing.

Removing stains with WD-40

Stubborn oil and grease stains can be removed with WD-40. The multifunctional oil can also help with other stains on clothing. The fine oil penetrates deep into the fibers and dissolves the dyes without leaving any residue.

Simply spray a small amount onto the stain, leave the oil to work in and then rinse it out with detergent.

WD-40 as a waterproofing spray

You can also use the penetrating oil to waterproof your leather shoes or winter boots. It also forms a water-repellent protective layer on many other textiles that keeps out rain and moisture.

Removing chewing gum from clothing

Anyone who has ever sat on spit-out chewing gum knows how firmly it sticks to clothing. WD-40 can help you to remove the chewing gum from the fabric.

First place the item of clothing in the freezer for a few hours. Then spray some multifunctional oil on the area and pull off the hard chewing gum.

Loosening jammed zippers

Never tug at a jammed or stiff zipper. Otherwise it could break. Instead, use WD-40 penetrating oil. It lubricates the zipper without greasing it.

Note on the use of WD-40 on clothing

Make sure that you do not use the penetrating oil on delicate fabrics such as silk or satin. You should also always try out an inconspicuous area beforehand to see if your clothing is compatible with the penetrating oil.

As it turns out, WD-40 is not only suitable for hinges and bicycle chains. It is also a true all-rounder for textile care.

It makes sense: we spend around a third of our lives sleeping, and we inevitably leave sweat, skin flakes and other body residue on our bed linen. Regular washing is therefore not only a question of hygiene, but also ensures better sleeping comfort. But how do you wash fitted sheets correctly so that they retain their fit, elasticity and color? With the right care tips, you can significantly extend the lifespan of your fitted sheets and ensure restful nights in fresh bed linen.

How often should fitted sheets be washed?

Before we look at the washing methods, the question arises as to the correct washing frequency. As a rule, you should change them every two to three weeks. If you sweat a lot, have skin problems or allergies, you should even wash them weekly. In summer, when we sweat more at night, it is logical to change them more frequently than in cooler seasons.

Regular cleaning not only prevents the build-up of mites and bacteria, but also keeps you feeling fresh when you go to bed. In addition, body oils and sweat can attack the fibers of your fitted sheet over time, shortening its lifespan.

The right wash cycle: temperature and program

Choosing the right washing temperature and program for your washing machine depends on the material of your fitted sheet. Always check the care label before washing to follow the manufacturer’s specific recommendations.

As a general guideline:

• Cotton fitted sheetsThese robust classics can usually be washed at 60°C without any problems. This temperature reliably kills bacteria and mites and thoroughly removes sweat and skin oils.
• Microfiber and syntheticsThese materials should be washed at lower temperatures (30-40°C) and on a gentle cycle to maintain their elasticity.
• Jersey fitted sheetThe popular, stretchy jersey sheets made of cotton can usually withstand 40-60°C.
• Satin and silkThese fine materials require special care and should only be washed at 30°C on a delicate wash program.

For colored fitted sheets, use a color detergent 🛒 without optical brighteners to prevent fading. For white sheets, use a heavy-duty detergent that refreshes the white tones. You should avoid using fabric softener as it reduces the absorbency of the material and can leave behind residues that can cause skin irritation.

Mastering special challenges

Fitted sheets sometimes present us with special challenges that require special treatment:

Stubborn stainsAlways treat stains immediately. Pre-treat sweat stains with gall soap or a stain remover. Blood stains should first be rinsed out with cold water – warm water fixes the blood in the fabric. For stubborn stains, soaking in water with a splash of lemon juice or baking soda can help.

Yellowed white sheetsSometimes a wash cycle with a cup of white vinegar instead of fabric softener helps against yellowing. Alternatively, you can soak the sheets in hot water with a solution of baking soda before washing them normally.

Decreasing elasticityIf the elastic in your fitted sheet starts to give way, wash it at a lower temperature and do not tumble dry it. Heat is the main enemy of elasticity.

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Correct drying for a long shelf life

After washing, proper drying is crucial for the longevity of your fitted sheets: Most cotton fitted sheets can be dried in the dryer at a low to medium temperature. However, take them out while they are still slightly damp to avoid excessive shrinkage and creasing. Synthetic materials and delicate fabrics such as silk should be left to air dry.

Hanging on the washing line should be done in such a way that the fitted sheet is stretched as little as possible. Fold it once in the middle and then hang it over the line. You should avoid direct sunlight on colored sheets as they can fade.

By the way: If you fold your fitted sheets immediately after drying or pull them onto the bed, you can often do without ironing. If creases do remain, a quick pass over with an iron at a low to medium temperature is sufficient for most materials.

The links marked with the shopping cart 🛒 are affiliate links. The products are researched to the best of our authors’ knowledge and some are also recommended from personal experience. If you click on such an affiliate link and buy something through it, our editorial team will receive a small commission from the online store in question. For you as a user, the price does not change and there are no additional costs. The income helps us to offer you high-quality, entertaining journalism free of charge.

Source: fragteamclean

Pharmaceutical residues can be found almost everywhere in nature. Some of it ends up in the wastewater via our urine. However, some is also simply poured down the sink. Although medicines in wastewater are not directly dangerous for humans, they are a burden on the environment. And wastewater treatment is becoming increasingly expensive. After all, nobody wants to have medicines in their drinking water that are not intended for them.

But why do only a few pharmacies offer to accept expired medicines these days? Because a large proportion of residual waste is incinerated. Incineration destroys the harmful components of the medication. In principle, tablets, ointments and tinctures that are no longer used can therefore be disposed of with the normal residual waste. However, there is no standardized regulation for this. Here you can find out how to get rid of old medicines in your region. But definitely not down the drain.

Sinks and washbasins are not garbage chutes! It is certainly unavoidable that more than just water runs down the drain from time to time. But if you pay attention to the points mentioned above, you will reduce the strain on pipes, health and the environment. They will thank you for it. And so will you – because a blocked drain is anything but a pleasure. Credit: IMAGO / Panthermedia

If you discover a white coating on your silicone mold, this is nothing to worry about at first. The discoloration may not look particularly attractive, but in most cases it is harmless. Read this article to find out what the white coating is all about and the best way to clean your silicone mold.

Where does the white coating on silicone molds come from?

When you see a white coating, you might immediately think of mold. But your worries are unfounded. If you have thoroughly washed the silicone mold and it no longer contains any food residue, it is most likely not about mold. Find out which three things can be responsible for the unsightly white coating on silicone molds:

Grease residue

The most common explanation for white deposits on silicone molds is grease residue. Sherin Knoll from the baking accessories manufacturer Birkmann explains the white coating on the silicone mold as follows: “Silicone absorbs the fat from baking like a sponge and stores it in the mold. After a certain time, the mold then releases the excess fat. As silicone also attracts dust and dirt, the mold gets this white coating.”

Rinse aid

Most silicone molds for baked goods or ice cubes are dishwasher-safe. However, if you choose a rinse cycle with rinse aid and special salt, residues can stick to the baking mold. Especially if you leave them to dry after removing them from the dishwasher, the white coating on the silicone mold will become visible.

Lime

Hand-washed silicone molds can also develop white spots. This phenomenon mainly occurs in households where the tap water contains a lot of limescale. Rub the mold dry with a microfiber or kitchen towel to avoid the white coating.

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Cleaning silicone molds: how to do it right

According to the manufacturer, you should clean a newly purchased silicone mold with hot water and washing-up liquid. Tap it out on a tea towel and let it air dry to avoid lint in the mold.

If it has been in the cupboard for a long time and has formed a white coating, you can do the following to clean the silicone mold:

• Boil with vinegar water
• place in the warm oven and then wipe out with a kitchen towel
• Rinse with hot water

By the way: The silicone mold does not need to be dry before use. You can pour the dough into the still moist mold. This makes it even easier to remove the baked goods after baking.

The mysterious white coating is therefore not a scary mold infestation, but usually just excess fat that the mold “sweats out” again. It’s reassuring to know that we don’t have to dispose of our beloved baking aids straight away – a little vinegar water, a warm oven or hot water is all it takes to banish the ghosts of past baked goods.

Sources: fragdenstein, oetker

It is not uncommon for limescale and urine scale to build up in the toilet over time. However, if there are black worms in the toilet, this is definitely a cause for concern. In this case, there is an urgent need for action. Where do the worms come from and how can you combat the vermin?

Don’t panic – if you act quickly now and pay attention to a few things in future, you will soon be rid of the vermin again.

Where do the black worms in the toilet come from?

The worms may be the larvae of flies, beetles or butterflies. This is because small creepy-crawlies such as abort flies, woodlice, cockroaches or silverfish prefer damp rooms. The bathroom is therefore almost ideal. Insects also find countless hair and skin flakes and hair in the bathroom, which are an excellent source of food. However, the black worms in the toilet could also be mosquito larvae.

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Regardless of the type of pest, the larvae can originate either in the cistern or in the rim of the toilet. However, they could also settle outside the toilet and fall into the bowl from there.

Note: If you have been away, there is a greater risk that pests will have spread in your bathroom during this time. It is quite possible that mosquitoes or other insects have laid their eggs in stagnant water (e.g. in the toilet, cistern or drain) and the larvae have hatched during your vacation.

How do I combat black worms in the toilet?

To combat the vermin, you should first clean your bathroom thoroughly. Clean the cupboards and shelves, wash all textiles and replace the toilet brush. The toilet, cistern and flushing rim should also be cleaned thoroughly. Also make sure that the humidity in the bathroom is not too high. In addition, you should never dispose of leftover food in the toilet.

If these measures are not successful, you can combat black worms in the toilet as follows:

• Flush the toilet with hot water.
• Use disinfectant.
• Clean the drain with pipe cleaner or a mixture of baking soda and vinegar.
• Regularly dissolve toilet tabs or dishwasher tabs in the toilet and then flush.

If you still haven’t been able to get rid of the vermin successfully, it’s high time to contact a plumber or exterminator.

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Problems with health

However, worms in the toilet could also be a sign of an undetected worm infestation in the body. They may be pinworms, roundworms or tapeworms. A worm infestation is only detected through a bowel movement. In this case, be sure to see a doctor – especially if you often have the feeling that your bottom is itching.

Note: As a worm infestation can be contagious, you should inform all members of the household. However, worms that infest the intestines are usually white rather than black.

To avoid black worms in the toilet, regular and thorough cleaning of the bathroom is essential. And if you do have a visit from the little pests after a long vacation, you can get rid of them quickly with these tricks! Did you know that rats can also get into your home through your toilet? Read here how you can prevent this problem.

Source: t-online
Thumbnail image: ©reddit/TamaleWin