If you discover a white coating on your silicone mold, this is nothing to worry about at first. The discoloration may not look particularly attractive, but in most cases it is harmless. Read this article to find out what the white coating is all about and the best way to clean your silicone mold.

Where does the white coating on silicone molds come from?

When you see a white coating, you might immediately think of mold. But your worries are unfounded. If you have thoroughly washed the silicone mold and it no longer contains any food residue, it is most likely not about mold. Find out which three things can be responsible for the unsightly white coating on silicone molds:

Grease residue

The most common explanation for white deposits on silicone molds is grease residue. Sherin Knoll from the baking accessories manufacturer Birkmann explains the white coating on the silicone mold as follows: “Silicone absorbs the fat from baking like a sponge and stores it in the mold. After a certain time, the mold then releases the excess fat. As silicone also attracts dust and dirt, the mold gets this white coating.”

Rinse aid

Most silicone molds for baked goods or ice cubes are dishwasher-safe. However, if you choose a rinse cycle with rinse aid and special salt, residues can stick to the baking mold. Especially if you leave them to dry after removing them from the dishwasher, the white coating on the silicone mold will become visible.

Lime

Hand-washed silicone molds can also develop white spots. This phenomenon mainly occurs in households where the tap water contains a lot of limescale. Rub the mold dry with a microfiber or kitchen towel to avoid the white coating.

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Cleaning silicone molds: how to do it right

According to the manufacturer, you should clean a newly purchased silicone mold with hot water and washing-up liquid. Tap it out on a tea towel and let it air dry to avoid lint in the mold.

If it has been in the cupboard for a long time and has formed a white coating, you can do the following to clean the silicone mold:

• Boil with vinegar water
• place in the warm oven and then wipe out with a kitchen towel
• Rinse with hot water

By the way: The silicone mold does not need to be dry before use. You can pour the dough into the still moist mold. This makes it even easier to remove the baked goods after baking.

The mysterious white coating is therefore not a scary mold infestation, but usually just excess fat that the mold “sweats out” again. It’s reassuring to know that we don’t have to dispose of our beloved baking aids straight away – a little vinegar water, a warm oven or hot water is all it takes to banish the ghosts of past baked goods.

Sources: fragdenstein, oetker

It is not uncommon for limescale and urine scale to build up in the toilet over time. However, if there are black worms in the toilet, this is definitely a cause for concern. In this case, there is an urgent need for action. Where do the worms come from and how can you combat the vermin?

Don’t panic – if you act quickly now and pay attention to a few things in future, you will soon be rid of the vermin again.

Where do the black worms in the toilet come from?

The worms may be the larvae of flies, beetles or butterflies. This is because small creepy-crawlies such as abort flies, woodlice, cockroaches or silverfish prefer damp rooms. The bathroom is therefore almost ideal. Insects also find countless hair and skin flakes and hair in the bathroom, which are an excellent source of food. However, the black worms in the toilet could also be mosquito larvae.

Regardless of the type of pest, the larvae can originate either in the cistern or in the rim of the toilet. However, they could also settle outside the toilet and fall into the bowl from there.

Note: If you have been away, there is a greater risk that pests will have spread in your bathroom during this time. It is quite possible that mosquitoes or other insects have laid their eggs in stagnant water (e.g. in the toilet, cistern or drain) and the larvae have hatched during your vacation.

How do I combat black worms in the toilet?

To combat the vermin, you should first clean your bathroom thoroughly. Clean the cupboards and shelves, wash all textiles and replace the toilet brush. The toilet, cistern and flushing rim should also be cleaned thoroughly. Also make sure that the humidity in the bathroom is not too high. In addition, you should never dispose of leftover food in the toilet.

If these measures are not successful, you can combat black worms in the toilet as follows:

• Flush the toilet with hot water.
• Use disinfectant.
• Clean the drain with pipe cleaner or a mixture of baking soda and vinegar.
• Regularly dissolve toilet tabs or dishwasher tabs in the toilet and then flush.

If you still haven’t been able to get rid of the vermin successfully, it’s high time to contact a plumber or exterminator.

Problems with health

However, worms in the toilet could also be a sign of an undetected worm infestation in the body. They may be pinworms, roundworms or tapeworms. A worm infestation is only detected through a bowel movement. In this case, be sure to see a doctor – especially if you often have the feeling that your bottom is itching.

Note: As a worm infestation can be contagious, you should inform all members of the household. However, worms that infest the intestines are usually white rather than black.

To avoid black worms in the toilet, regular and thorough cleaning of the bathroom is essential. And if you do have a visit from the little pests after a long vacation, you can get rid of them quickly with these tricks! Did you know that rats can also get into your home through your toilet? Read here how you can prevent this problem.

Source: t-online
Thumbnail image: ©reddit/TamaleWin

Green lilies are actually easy to care for – because the “Chlorophytum comosum” makes few demands and is therefore also suitable for beginners without green fingers. However, green lilies can occasionally develop brown tips. This detracts considerably from the appearance of this otherwise easy-care houseplant. You can find out what you can do about this and how to care for green lilies properly here.

If the leaf tips of your green lily have turned brown, you have probably done something wrong when caring for it. Here are 5 things to look out for:

The green lily is in the wrong location

Place the green lily in a bright spot near a window, but without direct sunlight. The sun could burn the leaves and cause brown tips.

The leaves of the plant do not hang freely

Make sure that the leaves can hang freely over the plant pot. If the leaves of the green lily hit the floor or window sill, this will also cause brown tips. Green lilies should either be grown in a hanging basket or on a shelf where their leaves can hang down freely.

The temperature is too low

This frugal houseplant feels most at home at a room temperature of 20 °C. If the temperature in the home falls below 10 °C, the green lily will stop growing. During the warm season, the green lily can also be taken outside for a warm summer shower.

Watering mistakes

Make sure that you only water the plant when the top layer of soil is already slightly dry. Excessive watering quickly leads to waterlogging, which the green lily cannot tolerate. This could cause its roots to rot, resulting in the otherwise robust houseplant dying. As a rule of thumb, a sip of water twice a week is enough to prevent the green lily from drying out. It stores enough water in its fleshy roots to survive longer periods of drought.

Tip: If the soil in the flower pot is noticeably dry, this could also be a reason for the brown tips. In this case, give your green lily a lukewarm immersion bath. When no more air bubbles emerge from the root ball, remove the plant from the bath and allow it to drain well before placing it back in the planter.

The air is too dry

You have followed all the care instructions and your green lily still has brown tips? This could be due to the humidity. The brown tips of the shoots indicate that the air is too dry. You can easily solve this problem by spraying the green lily regularly with water.

Reading tip – The best tips for houseplants:
Curious pine cone trick saves your houseplants
These 7 houseplants survive even in dark rooms
These 3 houseplants protect your home from mold

Source: yourself

Cleaning the oven – just the thought of it puts most people in a bad mood. So much so that many people spend a lot of money on self-cleaning ovens that burn off the dirt or work with steam. However, the latter method can also be carried out with any normal oven.

Cleaning the oven with steam

Cleaning the oven regularly is unavoidable. Because even if you are careful when cooking and baking, grease vapors settle in cracks and hard-to-reach places. Added to this are splashes of sauce, blobs of dough and other stubborn incrustations.

Scrubbing by hand, however, is laborious and often frustrating. Chemical oven cleaners are expensive and harmful to health. A trick with steam can help here: it makes cleaning the oven much easier and prevents stubborn stains from forming in the first place.

In self-cleaning ovens, this process is called hydrolysis. However, it is very easy to carry out yourself.

For this you need:

• Pot (suitable for oven), casserole dish or deep baking tray
• hot water
• Vinegar (alternatively: washing-up liquid)

This is how it works:

1. Preheat the oven to 230 °C. Even better: use the residual heat from the oven immediately after cooking and baking.
2. Boil the water in the kettle. Fill the pan (or baking dish or baking tray) with the hot water.
3. Add a little vinegar to the water. This prevents the steam from leaving behind limescale residue. It also increases the cleaning effect of the steam. Don’t worry: you will hardly smell the vinegar afterwards.
   Alternative: For heavier grease residues, add two squirts of washing-up liquid to the water. However, you should then air out the oven thoroughly.
4. Place the pan on the lowest shelf of the oven. Let the steam do its work for 30 to 60 minutes. Do not open the oven door.
5. Switch off the oven and let it cool down so that it is only lukewarm. Now you can wipe out the oven with a sponge or kitchen towel.

Cleaning the oven with steam: advantages and disadvantages

The method of cleaning the oven with steam is particularly suitable for regular use and for minor soiling. The steam helps to loosen grease and dirt more easily or prevent them from sticking in the first place. This keeps the oven clean down to the last crevice. The best way to do this is to use the residual heat immediately after cooking or baking. This prevents vapors, splashes and stains from burning in and also saves energy.

The Advantages of the steam trick lie in its simple and cost-effective application. Wiping out the oven afterwards is much easier.

The DisadvantageEven with this method, you cannot completely do without wiping. In addition, steam reaches its limits with old and heavy encrustations. In this case, it is better to use one of the home remedies for oven cleaning that we have already presented.

Practical, helpful, easy to use – the trick of cleaning the oven with steam has everything that makes a good life hack.

Source: myhomebook
Preview image: ©MediaPartisans/FUNKE Digital

Wash your comforter? Let alone wash the good down comforter? Many people shy away from this for fear of spoiling their beds. However, anyone can easily clean their beds at home if they follow these 10 tips.

Despite covers, comforters and pillows also get dirty over time. Mites, bacteria or bed bugs can also be a problem. Find out here how to wash your comforter correctly and avoid clumping.

Why comforters need to be washed

Every night, the body loses almost two liters of moisture, which penetrates the comforter cover as well as the comforter and pillow. The warm and moist environment causes microorganisms to spread inside the bedding, which can weaken your immune system. In addition to moisture, people also lose skin flakes, which are the food source for house dust mites. These lay their droppings in pillows and blankets and can trigger allergies in sensitive people.

How often should you wash your comforter?

You should wash your comforters once or twice a year. Since, of course, in the headpillow often accumulate even more moisture and dirt, you should wash them a little more often. So put them in the washing machine at least twice a year.

Follow these tips

Washing pillows or comforters is usually very easy. To avoid bad odors or clumping, you should pay attention to a few things when washing:

Study the washing label

Before washing, you should always take a look at the information on the label. They will tell you how you can wash your comforter. If the label on older comforters is yellowed and illegible, simply follow the rules in the points below. Then nothing should go wrong.

Do not use fabric softener

You should definitely avoid using fabric softener on comforters filled with down or feathers. This is because it forms a wafer-thin layer between the individual feathers and leads to clumping. Fabric softener can also cause lumps in blankets made from other materials. Therefore, always leave it out.

Use a low spin speed

Too high a spin speed can cause down and feathers to break more quickly. It is best to spin your down comforters at 400 to 800 revolutions per minute to protect the filling. Blankets made of synthetic fibers are less sensitive and can withstand higher spin speeds.

Better to double rinse

Due to the dense filling and the large volume in the washing machine, comforters may be more difficult to rinse. It is therefore best to play it safe and rinse your comforters and pillows twice after washing. This way, no detergent residue is left behind, which can cause clumping when drying.

Dry blankets in the dryer

There are several advantages to drying comforters in the dryer. Firstly, this minimizes clumping and secondly, the blankets dry much faster. If you leave the blankets to dry indoors, they will take a very long time and new germs can form, causing bad odors. Alternatively, you can also dry the blankets outside in the fresh air. However, pollen allergy sufferers should pay attention to the pollen season.

Attention: Avoid too high temperatures when drying in the dryer, otherwise the feathers in down comforters can become brittle.

Use the right detergent

It is best to use liquid detergent as it leaves fewer detergent stains and clumps. If you have down comforters, you should use a mild or special down detergent.

Wash blankets at 60 °C

If possible, comforters should be washed at 60 °C to kill mites and bacteria. However, not all materials can withstand such high temperatures. You can find an overview here:

• Down comforters: up to 60 °C
• Feather comforters: up to 60 °C
• Cotton comforters with synthetic fiber filling: up to 90 °C
• Microfiber comforters: up to 60 °C
• Silk comforters: to the dry cleaner; up to a maximum of 30 °C
• Camel hair comforters: dry clean; up to a maximum of 40 °C
• Cashmere comforters: dry clean; up to a maximum of 30 °C

Which washing program is the right one?

Gentle wash programs are suitable for comforters and pillows. The programs for delicates and wool can also be used.

Use tennis balls or washing balls

To avoid lumps in the comforter, use wash balls or tennis balls. Put them in the dryer to fluff up the filling.

Do not overload the washing machine

When washing comforters, always wash them individually, even if there is still room in the machine. The more free space there is, the better the detergent can spread and the comforter can be rinsed.

Washing very large comforters

If your comforter is too big for the machine, the only option is often to take it to the dry cleaners. Or you can try a launderette. They often have larger washing machines that can also accommodate large items of laundry. Alternatively, you can also wash comforters in the bathtub. Pay attention to the soaking time of the detergent and rinse the comforter thoroughly afterwards.

How to care for your bedding properly

Even if you can’t avoid hair, dander and moisture ending up in your comforter when you sleep, you can prolong the feeling of freshness with a few tips:

• Shake vigorously – Blankets and pillows should be shaken and fluffed regularly to remove trapped moisture.
• Regular airing out – open your blanket and pillow after getting up and hang them outside to air out.
• Change bed linen regularly – Bed linen should be changed every two weeks.
• Brush off dirt – Stains and dirt should always be brushed off immediately.

If you wash your bed linen, comforter and pillows regularly, your bed will remain clean and inviting for a long time. As a rule of thumb, comforters and pillows should be washed once or twice a year and replaced every six to eight years.

Sources: betten, stuttgarter-nachrichten, focus
Thumbnail images: ©pinterest/Hip2Save

WD-40 penetrating oil has many household uses and is part of the “standard equipment” in many hobby cellars and workshops. You can use the multifunctional product to remove burnt-on dirt, prevent rust or remove small scratches from car paintwork, for example. However, there are some things that you should never use WD-40 for.

You always thought WD-40 was an absolute all-rounder? Not quite. You should avoid using the popular penetrating oil in the following areas.

Do not clean the toilet or shower with WD-40

Avoid cleaning your toilet or shower with WD-40 at all costs. The penetrating oil would enter the waste water via the drain and harm the environment. To clean the toilet, it is better to use classic cleaning agents or household products.

Never clean rubber with WD-40

The penetrating oil can dissolve or damage rubber. It should therefore not be sprayed onto tires, rubber mats or other rubber parts. Instead, use a special rubber care product.

Do not use WD-40 as a lubricant

Many people use penetrating oil to make hooked locks, grinding hinges or bicycle chains work again. However, WD-40 is not a lubricant and should not be used for these purposes. You can clean such objects with the penetrating oil, but they still need to be greased afterwards.

Do not use WD-40 on plastic

WD-40 removes the plasticizer from plastic surfaces or plastic parts. The material becomes porous through the use of penetrating oil and can break off. It is better to use a solvent-free silicone spray to lubricate and clean plastic. The same applies to wood – the penetrating oil can dry out and damage the wood.

Do not clean textiles with penetrating oil

If you treat textiles with penetrating oil, e.g. to remove stains, discoloration may remain on the material. Therefore, check beforehand on an inconspicuous area how the material reacts on contact with the penetrating oil.

This otherwise versatile product is also not suitable for use on sports equipment (e.g. skis or snowboards), musical instruments or electronic devices. If you are unsure, you should do more research to find out whether the supposed miracle oil is suitable for your project. For these 11 household problems, however, you can use the penetrating oil without hesitation.

Source: t-online
Preview image: ©Wikimedia/ajay_suresh/ CC-BY-2.0

You’re in a hurry to get ready for an important meeting and suddenly your makeup ends up on your favorite shirt. Removing make-up stains can be an ordeal, but with our quick fix tricks you can get rid of them in no time.

Pre-treat make-up stains immediately

Make-up stains consist of various components such as oils, pigments and waxes that stubbornly adhere to textiles. Quick action is crucial to remove them. Start by removing the stain dab carefullyto remove excess material. Use an absorbent cloth or kitchen paper for this. The physical process behind this is simple: dabbing absorbs the liquid, similar to how a sponge absorbs water.

Home remedy for make-up stains

A proven home remedy is the use of liquid soap or Washing-up liquid. Apply a small amount directly to the stain and massage it in gently. The surfactants in the soap help to dissolve and emulsify the oils and pigments so that they can be washed out more easily. Leave the soap on for a few minutes and then rinse the area thoroughly with cold water.

For more stubborn stains, you can use a Enzyme-based stain remover can be effective. These products contain special enzymes that break down the proteins and oils in make-up. Apply the stain remover according to the instructions and allow it to work in sufficiently before washing the garment as usual. The enzymes act like microscopic helpers that break down the molecules and make them easier to dissolve.

Secret trick: remove make-up stains with shaving foam

Make-up stains on clothing or textiles can be effectively removed with shaving foam. To do this, proceed as follows:

• Simply apply a small amount of foam to the stain and rub in gently.
• The foam for about 10 to 15 minutes leave on
• With a damp cloth or lukewarm water wash out.

For stubborn stains, the process can be repeated or the affected area can be additionally treated with gall soap should be treated. Then wash the garment in the washing machine as usual. This method is particularly suitable for liquid make-up such as foundation or concealer.

Combinable methods and tips

If you are looking for other methods, you can also try baking soda or vinegar. Both are known for their cleaning properties. Baking soda acts as a mild abrasive and can help to dissolve the pigments, while Vinegar because its acidity attacks the structure of the stain. Mix a paste of baking soda and water and apply it to the stain. Let it dry and then brush it off. Vinegar can be applied directly to the stain to dissolve it.

Cleaning the cistern – hand on heart: very few people have this on their radar. Yet you should definitely devote your time to this object, because ignoring it is a big mistake. An inadequately maintained cistern can not only lead to limescale deposits, but also to problems with the toilet flushing or high water bills.

Why you should clean the toilet cistern regularly

The limescale content of water varies from region to region in Germany. The more calcareous the water is where you live, the more deposits you will notice in the kitchen and bathroom. In addition to the taps, the dishwasher and the pipes, the toilet cistern is also not spared from the unsightly white deposits.

Although the problem has less impact here than with a calcified tap, the deposits provide bacteria with an ideal breeding ground. To prevent this, the cistern should be cleaned at least every few months – from top to bottom.

Various problems with the flush, such as constantly running water or too little water in the cistern, can also be linked to limescale deposits and can be remedied by cleaning.

You may also be interested in these articles:

Cleaning the cistern: 8 tips and household remedies

In this article, you can find out which household remedies are suitable for cleaning the cistern and the best way to do it.

Choice of cleaning agent

Before you start, you should decide on a cleaning agent. To protect the environment and, above all, yourself, you should use household products. This is because the cleaning agent flows into the drain via the cistern and thus enters the environment, where chemical cleaning agents have absolutely no place.

If you clean the cistern regularly or only find minor limescale deposits, you can use vinegar essence for your project.

For medium soiling, citric acid is the cleaning agent of choice.

If you have never cleaned the cistern before or have heavy limescale deposits, it is best to use hydrochloric acid for stubborn stains.

Opening the cistern

Concealed cistern

The so-called concealed cisterns are recessed into the wall and are somewhat more difficult to open. First, carefully slide the cover upwards and remove it. Unscrew the partition wall behind it with a Phillips screwdriver to access the cistern. After cleaning, first replace the partition and then the cover.

Free-standing cistern

In this case, the lid is attached with a clip on the right and left. Lift the lid up and release the clip. After cleaning, replace the lid and press it on lightly.

If necessary, put on rubber gloves and always proceed carefully and according to the following step-by-step instructions. It is best to turn off the water supply during cleaning.

Remove the mechanical parts

Unhook the flush control arm so that you can pull up the drain plug underneath. The water will drain out of the sink and you can check and clean all the parts at your leisure.

Before the water drains, the so-called float is removed. It is located on the water in the cistern and detects the water level.

Once the operating arm and the float have been removed, take off the inlet valve, which is attached to the cistern with a nut.

Check the seals

There is a seal at the bottom of the cistern and at the top inlet. Check them for limescale deposits, dirt, porous areas or other damage and replace them if necessary.

Soak individual parts

Soak all the individual parts in a bucket of water and your chosen cleaning agent so that the limescale comes off. It is best to take the opportunity to check the parts for possible damage.

Soaking the cistern

Replace the cleaned seal so that the cistern is sealed. Then pour a mixture of water and the cleaning agent into the cistern and leave it to work for a few hours.

Cleaning

After the soaking time, the cistern and all individual parts are thoroughly cleaned with a brush.

Assembly and inspection

After cleaning, all parts are reassembled in the correct order. First the inlet valve, then the float and finally the operating arm. Check everything again and put the lid on the cistern before turning the water supply back on in the last step.

Regular cleaning and inspection of the cistern is time-consuming but worthwhile. You can prevent high repair and water costs and extend the service life of the individual parts. How long has it been since your cistern was last thoroughly cleaned?

Sources: house, obi